Saturday, February 13, 2010

Masakan Bali - Bali cuisine

Contributed by: Mehr & Yuriiki

Not many people know that Bali has its own cuisine called ‘Masakan Bali’. In its most basic form Balinese food consists of rice as a staple, served with dishes made from pork or fish, a variety of sate and vegetables often mixed with chili and other condiments. Most Balinese meals are eaten quickly with no fanfare as dining out and in groups is not a normal custom in society. Indonesia is a Muslim country, so pork isn’t celebrated as it is here in Bali. Pork is, however, consumed avidly by Balinese, the urban Chinese and the non-Malay population. Beef consumption is limited in Bali because cows and buffaloes are needed as draught animals in the paddy fields. The favorite animal protein of Bali's Indian population is mutton.
Ayam Goreng Nasi Campur


The best way to enjoy the true flavors of Bali is to stay away from the big tourist flooded hotels and head to the streets. The ‘Warungs’ or the snack carts and the ‘Kaki Lima’ or the mobile carts dish out local favorites at reasonable rates to the Balinese people and adventurous tourists. (Trivia – Kaki Lima means 5 legs; 3 wheels of the cart and 2 of the man that pulls the cart.) While in most cases the food here is safe, one may exercise caution while dining out. Very often tourists may confuse the effects of a changed diet with a more serious stomach illness.
The Southeast Asian concept of night markets comes to life in Bali where stalls sprout at dusk and blast the latest chartbuster singles, while plating flavorful and exotic dishes. Even if you can’t eat at one of these, you must visit it to enjoy the sights and sounds of Bali. Most tourists may end up eating Chinese or Indonesian food that is typically served in larger hotels. Visiting these markets brings tourists closer to the locals and helps them understand the culture and lifestyle of the people.

Culinary Terms
:

§ Anything preceded by ‘Nasi’ contains rice.
§ Nasi putih – Plain rice
§ Gula – Sugar
§ Susu – Milk or usually sweetened condensed milk
§ Istimewa written after a dish means it is topped with fried egg
§ Rijstaffel – Literally means rice table and refers to a 5-10 course meal. In ancient times there were 35 courses in a rijstaffel. Items are normally served in handmade pottery and accompanied by Tingklik orchestra.
§ Ayam – Chicken
§ Bebek – Duck
§ Goreng – Fried
§ Pecel – Indonesian peanut-based sauce
§ Bubur – Rice porridge
§ Kacang – nut; Hijau – green; Kacang Hijau: green bean
§ Pisang – banana
§ Kopi – coffee
§ Teh – tea
§ Panas – hot
§ Es – iced (Iced tea – Teh Es)
§ Kerang - clams

Famous Dishes:
§ Nasi Goreng – Indonesian fried rice with a fried egg on top; vegetarian versions are available
§ Mee goreng – fried noodles with egg; vegetarian versions are available
§ Babi guling – pieces of grilled suckling pig with delicious crispy skin
§ Bebek Betutu- a duck delicacy, where the fowl is marinated with many different herbs and spices, wrapped in banana leaves and then baked over a low flame
§ Lawar – made from pig’s blood and spices accompanied by other goodies from the village
§ Gado Gado - healthy Javanese salad with a combination of potatoes and vegetables, smothered with a hearty quantity of spicy peanut sauce often served with prawn crackers; vegetarian versions are available
§ Cap-Cay – Chinese sweet and sour stir fried meat and vegetables
§ Martabak - a fried roti bread, filled with meat or vegetables
§ Nasi campur - Common fare in Indonesia; a heap of steamed rice topped with vegetables, meat, pickles and krupuk (crackers)
§ Nasi rames - rice with vegetables, meat and a fried egg
§ Opor ayam - chicken cooked in coconut milk usually served with white rice (nasi putih)
§ Javanese-style fried chicken, ayam suharti, ayam chichi, and ayam timbungan with curry
§ Ayam taliwang, a superb chicken recipe from Lombok best served in Denpasar
§ Nasi pecel is a Javanese rice dish served with cooked vegetables and peanut sauce

Babi guling Nasi campur Bebek Betutu


Sweet offerings:

Martabak Manis - A sweet pancake with butter, chocolate, cheese, condensed milk and peanut toppings - not common on Bali, but sometimes available
Bubuh Injin - desert made from natural black glutinous rice, served hot, in a sweet sauce of palm sugar and thick coconut cream
Pisang goreng - fried bananas
Peanuts in palm sugar, cooked peanuts
Jaja - multi-colored coconut confectionary and ice-cream


Popular Snacks:

Bakmie - rice flour noodle soup
Satay - spicy marinated thin slices of meat, threaded onto a skewer, barbecued, and served with a spicy peanut sauce; ‘Satay Ayam’ is chicken satay. Shrimp, pork, intestines, eggs, turtle or dog meat are popular; so be sure to order carefully.
Bakso - meatball soup
Lemper - sticky rice
Lumpia - fried spring rolls with vegetables and meat
Sop - clear soup or meat and vegetable stew
Soto - a meat and vegetable broth with rice served with coconut cream or santen.
Krupuk - large, crispy, tangy, oversized cracker made from crab meat, fish flakes, shrimp paste, or even fruit mixed with rice, flour or sago flour. It is first dried to resemble thin, colored plastic and then deep fried in oil.

Bakso Lumpia Lemper



Fruits:

Bali has a wide variety of fruit, some of which may call for an acquired taste. While the durian overpowers most fruits, other fruit such as mangoes, mangosteen, bananas, jackfruit, rambutan, makiza, pineapple, papaya, logan, melon, oranges and custard-apple serve as fantastic refreshers at any time of the day. They may also be suitable healthy alternatives for those who cannot find an agreeable place to eat.
Durian – King of Asian fruit with an unappealing smell
Rambutan – Hairy version of a lychee



Beverages:

It is highly recommended to not drink the local water. Most people drink bottled water ie. Aqua or Air. The brand Aqua is synonymous with bottled drinking water; hence order for Aqua and you are sure to be safe. While there are many coolers, refreshers and local fizzy drinks, do not attempt to find the international brands of soda. Visit the supermarket to stock up on these if they are essential. Do not ask for ice unless the venue explicitly mentions made from boiled water.

Kopi Bali (Balinese coffee) and Teh Panas (hot tea) are excellent beverages but the tea with ginger is a must try. Mention gula or susu if you want sugar and milk.

Pricing:

Nasi goreng, mie goreng and satay can range from Rp.3,000 in markets to over Rp.15,000 in restaurants depending on the surroundings. However you may need to pay about Rp.5,000 to Rp.15,000 for gado gado. Expect to pay about Rp.5,000 for basic dishes of seafood usually kept live in tanks to over Rp.50,000 in restaurants. Needless to say that lobsters will be far more expensive. Local snacks may cost around Rp.2,000 to Rp.5,000 or even less in the smaller villages where there is less direct reliance on the tourist dollar.

For those who are willing to try but are worried about the stomach bug, you may want to start with simple pisang goring, lumpia, bakmie and bakso and work your way up to more complicated preparations.


Hawker street fare (the expats claim these food is really good!):

1) Address: Jalan Setiabudi No 19, Kuta
Food: Steak/Chicken hotplate costs around Rp15,000
Fries is Rp7000 & rice Rp2,500

2) Address: Jl Oberoi near La Lucciola.
Shop name: Warung Ibu Dewi (on the far left and its blue in colour)
Food: the owner makes great nasi pecel, and her nasi campur is wonderful!
3) Address: Central Denpesar
Shop name: Tiara Supermarket foodcourt
Food: a range of all sorts!

4) Address: the road heading from Nusa Dua to Kuta (closer to Nusa Dua side)
Shop name: Ham Le (next to a motor bike repair shop)
Food: “The tastiest seafood meal I have had in Bali”

5) Address: Jl. Petitenget
Shop name: Warung Sulawesi (opposite Warung Europ)
Food: You could choose the seafood from the ice box and pay by the kilo, the food is cooked
on a coconut husk bbq. There are fish, prawns, kerang and kangkung all served with
sambal (chilli paste) and nasi. It wasn't cheap by warung standards but it was such
tasty fresh seafood. The favourite was the kerang - fat and juicy served in the shell
and smothered in sambal.
Opens everyday for lunch, except on Sundays. It is usually crowded during lunch time -
so the food must be good.

6) Address: Jl. Legian, next to the Megabank, near the intersection to Jl Sunset
Shop name: Warung Pojok
Food: Tofu/Tempe/Telur/Eggplant Lalapan ( Rp8.000); cheapest Teh Es (Rp2.000)
Nice place after clubbing in the early morning hours, when it's the only place open, but a
bit bland during the day.

7) Address: Puri Gadin, Jimbarn
Food: Best satay ever @Rp6,000 for 10 sticks



Spicy food series:

S1) Ibu Andika
JL.Raya Kuta,Kuta
Tel. - Nil
24hrs open
Price - RP17,000

S2) Warung Bali
JL.Tangkuban Perahu No.2, Kerobokan
Tel. 081-239-61203
Open 09:00 - 15:00
Price - RP10,000 ~ 12,000
S3) Ibu Made Weti
JL.Segara Ayu, Sanur
Tel. - Nil, Open 08:00 - sold out
Price - RP12,000
S4) Nasi Ayam Kedewatan Inu Mangku
JL.Kayu Jati No.12,Br.Jimbaran Carik-Basangkasa,Seminyak
Tel.3083008 Open 09:00 - 21:00
Price - RP15,000 ~ 20,000

S5) Warung Surabaya
JL.Wana Segara No.2, Tuban
Tel.762264
Open 05:00 - 20:00
Price - RP8,000 ~ 10,000

S6) Ayam Betutu Gilimanuk
JL.Raya Tuban No.2, Tuban
Tel. 757535
Open 10:00 - 22:00
Price - Ayam Betutu RP18,000 + Rice RP4,000
S7) Warung Pojok
JL.By Pass Ngurah Rai No.300
Tel.722827
Open 24hrs
Price - Nasi Goreng RP12,000 Soup RP8,000
S8) Warung Be Pasih
JL.Pemuda III No.24,Renon,Denpasar
Tel.237755
Open 09:00 - 22:00
Price - Sate Ikan RP16,500
S9) Warung Mak Beng
JL.Hang Tuah No.45,Sanur
Tel.282633
Open 08:30 - 17:00
Price - Ikan Goreng RP22,000

S10) Warung Jasmine
JL.Raya Tuban No.63, Tuban
Tel.924827
Open 07:00 - 24:00
Price - Tempe Tahu Penyet RP7,000
S11) Rawon Setan
JL.Raya Kuta No.104 Blok-C, Kuta
Tel.758666
Open 24hrs
Price - Iga Penyet RP30,000 + Rice RP3,000

S12) Taliwang Bersoudara
JL.Raya Kuta No.89, Kuta
Tel.752923
Open 11:00-23:30
Price - Ayam Plering Taliwang RP25,000
S13) Nasi Hot
JL.Raya Kuta No.77X, Tuban
Tel.8037575
Open 08:00 - 22:00
Price - Ayam Panggang RP15,000
S14) Warung Parahyangan
JL.Sudamala No.55-57,Sanur
Tel.270532
Open 09:00 - 21:30
Price - Ikan Bakar Pedes RP24,000
S15) Kartika
JL.By Pass Ngurah Rai No.116,Sanur
Tel.285325
Open 08:00 - 18:00
Price - Lawar RP20,000


28 comments:

  1. argh!!
    Sorry the formatting is horrible no matter how i adjust it...

    Yuriiki

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  2. I think the info looks great Yuriiki. I see some pics added and deleted. Good Job.

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  3. This makes me hungry!!!!! I can't wait to be there!

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  4. So I'm going to enjoy quite a bit of spice if I seek it out, right? I'm looking forward to it! (And I appreciated reading about the sweet concoctions too.)

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  5. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  7. I like the details in the article and looking forward to eat all that.
    it would be great if we could find out whether the food joints in Bali accept USD or SGD? Cause when I went to Bintan, most of the places accepted USD/SGD and I kind of regretted converting my SGD's to Rupiah beforehand. Dont want to lose money in converting again... :)(sorry ws trying to remove my initial id "creation" up there, did not work it seems)

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  8. Restaurants with proper store front usually accept USD and Rupiah but street carts will usually frown at USD.
    Always good to have some rupiah if you are planning to travel on the local transport.

    Please try Gado Gado with caution...It's a popular local semi raw salad. I had a major case of Bali belly on last trip .....

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  9. Oooooh--I love gado gado, but good point to be careful about where you get it. Definitely get some rupiah--you'll need it anyway for your departure fee (plus you'll need USD for your arrival fee). And, hey, it's a way to make you feel very wealthy--to put it in perspective the exchange rate is about 6500 rupiah to the SGD! It seems sort of weird to be paying 100,000 rupiah for things until you realize that it's really not that expensive.

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  10. Great research! I can't wait to do some hands-on investigation. I think it's imperative to our learning.

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  11. Is it generally safe to eat from the street vendors given that the water is not safe for consumption? I know most of the food is hot (temperature, not spice!) so it should kill all of the bacteria, but just wondering ...

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  12. Given that the water is so-so, sticking to cooked things sounds good. Anyone else have advice on this??

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  13. This is fantastic information. Can't wait to try the roast pig that gets its bronze from coconut water.

    As for consuming roadside food, just stick to the hot, cooked stuff. Avoid ice and make sure the mineral water bottles you get are new (vendors have been known to refill used bottles with tap water; this practice applies to other countries in South East Asia too). You might want to be cautious when eating ready-sliced fruit as well. Speaking of fruit, try the salak Bali - different from the Yogya variety - when you can. It's like a slightly engorged reptilian fig with crunchy and gently acidic flesh.

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  14. Yup, so far I heard the roadside food is really good. As long as it is fully cooked, the bacteria in whatever dirty water they used to cook the food would not have survived the temperature! ;p

    Go to those stalls that many people patronise. That should be safer.

    Bring your charcoal pills just in case.

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  15. Given the Balinese langauge have traces of Dutch in Adhi's post, I wonder if there are also any inherited Dutch influenced cruisines? Just a thought.

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  16. The Rijsttafel (don't ask me how to pronnounce this...) is an example of indonesian food with Dutch influence. Translated, it means 'Rice Table'. It is an elaborate feast adapted by the Dutch from the Indonesian feast called nasi padang. The Rijsttafel consists of many small side dishes (about 40++) which includes:

    Babi Kecap – Pork belly braised in sweet soy sauce
    Bebek Betutu – Duck roasted in banana leaves
    Daging Semur – Stir-fried beef with sauce
    Gado-gado - Vegetables (cooked or fresh) with peanut sauce (sambal kacang)
    Krupuk – Shrimp crackers
    Lumpia – Egg rolls
    Nasi goreng – Fried rice
    Nasi kuning - Indonesian yellow rice
    Perkedel - Meat and potato patties
    Pisang Goreng - Banana fritters
    Sambal Iris – Onion, tomato and chilli pasta
    Sambal Kacang - Peanut sauce
    Sambal Ulek – Spicy chilli paste
    Satay (sometimes spelled Sate or Sateh) - Various thinly sliced meats, marinated then broiled on a skewer, such as: Sate Ajam, chicken; Sate Babi, pork; Sate Lilit, seafood
    Serundeng - Peanuts with coconut
    Tahu Telur - Tofu omelet
    Telur Balado - Hard-boiled eggs sautéed in chilli sauce
    Sayur Lodeh - Vegetable stew (spicy) in coconut milk
    Daging Rendang - Aromatic beef braised in coconut milk
    Lemper - Rice rolls with spicy filling
    Opor Ayam - Chicken coconut curry


    We have a Rice Table restaurant in Singapore too! If you can't wait to try Balinese food, go for the local Rice Table in the meantime (& tell me if its really authentic after you have tried the real stuff in Bali!)

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  17. By the way,

    Ayam Penyat is sss0000ooooooo good you must try it. Its indonesian and its something like nasi lemak just a lot better!!
    coconut rice + juicy fried chicken

    Again, if you cant wait to try it, go to Novena MRT ---> turn left on exiting the station control ---> turn left again before you reach the stairs and Harvey Norman is right in your face ---> the Ayam Penyat is sitting there waiting for you on the left. Top it up with an thick, creamy avocado milk shake.. *aaahhhhh* Its so good....

    Alex can conveniently have that since you are there everyday! ;p

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  18. I'd say we're all ready for the food there. An avocado milk shake sounds wonderful.

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  19. Wow, cool! Is the cuisine similar to Malaysian food?

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  20. I think it can be similiar but in greater variety.

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  21. perkedel is dutch influence on indonesia cuisine

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  22. 1. Warung Made – Seminyak
    Telp : 62 361 751923

    2. Kudeta – Legian, very famous and the hottest place in Bali
    Telp : 62 361 736969

    you can try for lunch on wed, 24 Feb

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  23. Babi guling is the aunthentic masakan bali

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  24. Seems like Babi Guling really is THE food to try when in Bali. I remember seeing an Anthony Bourdain episode where he ate some. Apparently this place in Ubud called Ibu Oka has the best. Hope we can squeeze in a quick trip to this place!

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  25. With soo much information about Non vegetarian popular dishes..I wonder if there are some options for vegetarians like me....but i am waiting to try the ginger tea with milk!

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  26. I wonder if the Balinese consume pork because of a different religious affiliation than a lot of other regions/peoples of Indonesia or if it was just kind of adapted recently to accomodate Western tourists/visitors? Either way, food sounds pretty good!

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  27. Ayush, Just for you, I had researched which of the dishes are offered in vegetarian. Your best option would be to try the Nasi goreng or the mie goreng with vegetables. Nasi Pecel and gado gado are also available as vegetarian preparations.

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  28. Vegetarian options:

    The selection of international restaurants is amazing so vegetarians should not have too much trouble. You might go for a spinach lasagna at Warung Italia, a vegetarian Indian dish at Gateway to India, or a vegetarian Meditereanean plate at Zula, on Jalan Dhyana Pura.

    However, if your heart still desires Indonesean food; hitting a Padang food place, the Sumatran style places with pyramids of food in the window, you will notice many vegetarian options. Rice will be a staple, vegetable choices are often free and other items cost more. For example I might choose fried temple (made from soy beans), kangkung (the leafy green vegetable), nangka (curried jackfruit), hard boiled egg and a potato cake. In other Indonesian-style places, you will find dishes such as Gado Gado, which is steamed cabbage and sprouts, with rice, tofu and peanut sauce. Yummy!!!

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